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A brief discussion about fertilization from TACF's Southern Appalachian Regional Science Coordinator, Paul Sisco There are several ways to control weed in an orchard. The following question and answer summary pertains to the use of black plastic as a method of weed control. Other methods include strict herbicide use, as well as the use of landscape fabric. Be certain to consult with experts at TACF, especially before starting a large orchard.
SFF: Do you know if you got embossed or none? PHS: Embossed. That's what Fred uses, and it's a stronger plastic.
SFF: When do you ordinarily apply your plastic: fall or spring? PHS: Spring, right after the fields have been subsoiled and then plowed, fertilizer has been spread, and the fields have then been disked to incorporate the fertilizer. You can find photos of the process at:
SFF: Do you have a problem with the plastic tearing? PHS: Not if you don't step on it or if deer don't tramp all over it.
SFF: What is the general life-span of a roll of fabric in one of your orchards? PHS: It usually holds up very well the first year, begins to tear a bit the second. Fred always removes the plastic the third year. He has a crew come along with rakes and remove every bit of it.
SFF: How do you control weeds around a tree? Do you hand weed? PHS: If you punch a hole through the plastic with a bulb planter, and then put the aluminum tube down through the hole, you'll only occasionally get weeds coming up through the cylinder. Those are hand-weeded. You have to be very careful not to pull up the seedling at the same time you're pulling up the weeds, if the weeds are in the tube. Weeds growing up around plastic tubes can be sprayed with Roundup.
SFF: You subsoil some of your of your orchards, but not all. Correct? PHS: I subsoil every orchard I can. Our best growth has been where we have either subsoiled (for planting nuts) or used an augur (for transplanting 1-0 seedlings from pots. Christmas tree growers around here highly recommend the practice.
SFF: Have you noticed extreme differences in the amount of vegetation under these plastic rolls? PHS: The UV-resistant embossed plastic is completely opaque. No plants whatsoever grow under it, unless there is a tear or the plastic has not been covered well at its edges.
SFF: If so, does the subsoiling make a difference in the life-span of the plastic? PHS: Not to my knowledge. The subsoiling is to create an open avenue for the root system the first year, especially the tap root.
SFF: If so, do you think disking or plowing would have a similar affect? PHS: No, not unless you get 24" deep in the soil, and you probably do not want to turn up the "B" horizon from that depth. Subsoiling just creates a "cavern" or "slit" through which the tap root can easily grow. Plowing and disking help to destroy the grass structure and incorporate the granular fertilizer.
SFF: How do you subsoil? I imagine this is with some sort of tractor attachment. PHS: Yes, it's a simple 24" chisel that attaches to the tractor. The process is sometimes called "ripping", because the soil is literally ripped along a straight line before it's either plowed or disked. Photos of more elaborate multiple chisels are at: http://reveg-catalog.tamu.edu/07-Site%20Preparation.htm#Subsoilers, Scroll down to the "subsoiler" section.
SFF: While you like the implementation of this technique to orchard establishment, do you think it's necessary for all orchards? PHS: I looked on the web, and one site recommended it be done in any case where "it is difficult to dig through dry soil with a shovel." My guide has been the Fraser fir growers here. They rip the soil twice at 90 degree angles and plant the seedling fir trees at the intersections of the two rip-lines.
SFF: Or only those with soils prone to fragipan? PHS: I'd recommend it everywhere here. I am not familiar with the soils of PA. But why not use it? It's simple, if one has a tractor. 24" shanks can be made from scrap metal. All you are doing is ripping a straight line 24" deep through the soil. It's a problem for our growers if there are a lot of roots in the soil, but Fred at Meadowview just uses a powerful tractor and rips away.
SFF: Or only those with soils that have had a history of compaction (i.e. logging/long-term pasture usage)? PHS: Pasture and cropland probably really need it. Forest loam soils may not.
SFF: Do you herbicide along the edges of all of your plastic? PHS: Yes, and anywhere the plastic has ripped and there are weeds growing up through it.
SFF: If not, do those weeds affect the longevity/stability of the rolled-out plastic? PHS: The plastic is pretty tough. Weeds grow through slits in it, but they usually can't break the plastic by pushing up, even our thorny blackberry vines. But the greater the integrity of the plastic surface (no tears, no loosed edges) the better.
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Last modified Tuesday, April 29, 2008 8:32  |